Like a lazy dog on a hot summer''s day, Albarino grapes love the sun and like to mature at a relaxed pace. That''s OK with us, just so long as they keep yielding wines as delicious as the Peitan. The first thing the Peitan''s audience will notice is her tropical nose followed by some hints of ocean air. The palate is medium bodied, crisp, and bracing enough for shellfish. Rias Baixas is the place for Albarino, and with wines as good as the Peitan, it should remain so for a good long time.